Footwear and method of making same



0t 16, 1945. R, MAUNG 2,386,809

FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Sept. 19, 1944 5 Sheets-Sheet lOct. 16, 1945. MAUNG 2,386,809

FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Sept; 19, 1944 s Sheets-Sheet2- Oct. 16, 1945. R. MALING 2,386,809

FOOTWEAR AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Sept. 19, 1944 3 Shets-Sheet 3INVENTOR.

Patented Oct. 16, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE FOOTWEAR AND METHODOF MAKING SAME Roy Maling, West Roxbury, Mass.

Application September 19, 1944, Serial No. 554,796

13 Claims. (01. 36-195) This invention relates to improvements infootwear and methods of producing the same. More particularly itprovides improvements in shoes and slippers of the general variety inwhich the uppers are lasted only in the shank and heel regions thereof.

Footwear of the general type to which my present invention relates haveso-called slip-lasted foreparts which means that the forepart of theupper is stitched all around the forepart to a base element while theupper is free of a last, and subsequently a last is slipped into thepre-stitched forepart between the upper and said base element,preliminary to a lasting of the rear portions of the upper. The baseelement which is thus pre-stitched to the forepart of the upper may bean insole but usually is a flexible sheet of fabric which may serve thepurpose of a socklining and be exposed interiorly of the finished shoeor slipper. After the last is slipped into the pre-stitched forepart,the rear portions of the upper may be lasted thereon, and the outsoleand heel elements applied.

It is an} object of my invention to provide a simplified method ofproducing such shoes and slippers and to provide an improved product, ascompared with prior methods and structures. I employ a full lengthsock-lining element which can be stitched as in thepast to the upper allaround the forepart while the upper is free of a last, and which isover-size throughout or at least at its shank and heel covering regions,to provide marginal portions which may be turned over the edges of aninsole element and be secured as by'cement to the under surface of theinsole element after a last has been slipped into the prestitchedforepart and preparatory to lasting of the rear portions of the upperand their securement as by cement to the under surface of the insoleelement.

It is a feature that the full length sock-lining element may beover-size throughout to provide all-around marginal portions for beingturned over-the edges of a full length insole element, or only the shankand. heel covering regions of the sock-lining may have the turn-overportions for binding the edges of an insole element having extent onlyin the shank and heel regions.

'Another object is to provide a method which involves no temporaryfastening of any shoe part to the last prior to insertion of the last inthe pre-stitched forepart of the upper. According to my invention theadjacent faces of the sock-lining and insole element preferably arecemented together throughout the extent of the insole element, and thesock-lining can be drawn smooth and tight over the insole element as themarginal portions of the sock-lining are turned over the edges of the'insole. The insole element thus secured by the sock-lining constitutes acomposite base element to which the rear portionspf the upper may besecured when lasted.

A feature is that the rear portions of the socklining and upper continuefree of each other after stitching of the sock-lining and upper aroundthe forepart, so that a last easily and quickly may be slipped into thepre-stitched forepart by thrusting it between the free rear portions ofthe sock-lining and upper, as distinguished from having to insert thelast through the foot opening in the upper.

Another object is to provide a pre-formed platform, heel and shank unitwhich may be cemented or otherwise secured to the shoe structure afterthe rear portions of the upper have been lasted and which, under thepressure of application, automatically conforms approximately to theunder surface of the lasted portions of the structure, thereby avoidingthe need for filler materials.

Still another object is to provide apre-formed platform, heel and shankunit in which the heel may have various shapes and which includes anunder side for receiving an outsole which may be cemented or otherwisesecured in place.

It is, moreover, my purpose and object generally to improve upon priorshoe-making methods and structures.

In the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe upper having an over-size fulllength sock-lining stitched interiorly thereto at the forepart only andhaving a platform cover secured exteriorly thereto;

Figure 2 is a bottom plan view of the structure of Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view on line 3-3 of Figure 1; g

Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view showing a last slipped into thepie-stitched structure of Figures1-3, and a full length insole laid inplace;

Figure 5 is a cross-sectional view on line 55 of Figure 4;

Figure 6 is a top plan view of Figure l but showing the marginalportions of the sock-lining turned over the edges of the ins-ole andcemented to the face of the insole which is upper-most in i ure 4; v

Figure 7 is a cross-sectional view on line 'l-T of Figure 6; p

Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 6 but showing the rear portions ofupper lasted and cemented to the insole;

Figure 9 is a plan view of a platform element having its edges bound atthe shank and heel regions thereof;

Figures 10 and 11 are plan views of two heel lift elements; p

Figure 12 is a plan view showing'the platform element of Figure 9 andthe heel liftelements of Figures 10 and 11 after being combinedj jFigure 13' 'isa cross-sectional view showing the unitary platform andheel of Figure 12 secured in place in my shoe structure, the platformcover at the forepart being turned over the edges of the platform andsecured as by cement to the face of the platform 'which is upper-most inFigure 13;

Figure 14 is a side elevation of a completed shoe made according to myinvention;

Figure 15 is a view similar to Figure 4 but showing a modification inwhich the insole element extends only at the shank and heel regions;

Figure 16 is a perspective of the insoleelemen of Figure 15; and

Figure 17 is a plan view looking down on Figure 15 but with the marginalportions of the sock-lining at the'shank and heel regions turned overthe edges of the insole element and secured as by cement to'the face ofthe insole element Which'is upper-most in Figure 17.

Referring to the drawings, the shoe upper I9 is representative offootwear uppers in general and may be of any'desired style and design.However, my invention is limited to footwear structures whose upper hasonly its shank and heel portions lasted.

According to my invention, the upper Ill is prestitched to asocklining'l2 r l2 around the forepart while the upper is free of alast. In the embodiment of Figs. l-14, the sock-lining I2 is V coveringstrip I8 is stitched to the forepart of the upper exteriorly thereofeither by separate stitching or preferably by the same stitches I6 thatsecure the upper and sock-lining together. The platform cover strip I8is stitched with its surface which is to be exposed laid against theouter surface of the upper, as best seen in Figs. 1 and 2, so I that thefree portion 'of strip I8 later may be turned over the edges of aplatform element as later will appear.

After the foreparts of upper and sock-lining and the cover strip I8 havebeen stitched toplatform element.

lasted over upon and cemented to the insole element 26 as shown in Fig.8.

According to my invention, a platform and heel unit is pre-formed forunitary embodiment in the shoe. Fig. I) shows the platform element,designated 28, upon which a plurality of heel lift elements 30, 32 shownin Figs. 10 and 11, are secured. One or more of the heel lift elements30 are arranged on the side of the platform which is to be upper-most inthe shoe in use, and one or more of the shorter heel lift elements 32are arranged on the opposite or under side of the The platform and theheel lifts may be of any suitable material but preferably will be of aresiliently yieldable material such as felt orother matted fibre forcushioning shocks incident to use ofthe" shoe. As represented, theseelements have their edges bound with fabric or the like to providefinished edges where they are to be exposed. The binding on the platformis only at the shank and heel regions because the forepart of theplatform is to be subsequently covered by the platform cover strip I8. 7

Figs. 12 and 13 show the platform and heel unit with its elementssecured together as by cement and also by staples 34 which extendthrough the platform-element 28 and through all of the heel liftelements30, 32. Preferably a suitable shank stiffener 36 intervenesbetween the platform element and a heel lift element 30 or, if theplatform is made of two superimposed gether, a last 20 is slipped intothe upper between the upper and sock-lining. It is a feature ofimportance that when the upper has an open rear part as at 22 in Fig. 1,the last easily and quickly may be slipped into the upper through thisreal opening 22 instead of through the foot opening in the upper whichlatter is more difficult and consumes a greater amount of time. Inasmuchas the upper and sock-lining are free of each other at their shank andheel regions when the last is being inserted, they readily may be spreadapart as needed to accommodate the last, and the heel strap portion 24of the upper easily may be positioned over the last after the last is inplace.

When the last has been slipped into the, upper as in Figs. 4 and 5, aninsole element 26 is laid in place within the margin excess portions I4of the sock-lining I2. Preferably the confronting faces of sock-liningand insole will be I cemented throughout and the marginal excesses I4are turned over the insole edges all around the insole and cemented asin Figs. 6-8 to the exposed face oftheinsole.

The shoe of Figs. 6 and '7 is now ready for lasting of the rearportionsof its upperwhicl 'are layers of platform material, th shank stiifenerconveniently may intervene between its two layers. In any event, theheel lift element 30, of felt or the like, conforms under pressuregenerally to the shape of the adjacent confronting surfaces so thatthere is no need for fillter elements or substances.

After the platform and heel unit has been secured in place, the platformcover strip I8 is .turned over the edges of the platform around the.forepart and is cemented to the outsole side of the platform as seen inFig, 13, after which an outsole 38 is applied and secured, as by cement,to provide the completed shoe illustrated in Fig. 14.

- Although the described structure having a full length insole elementhas advantages over prior footwear constructions, I consider itpreferable in many cases, from the standpoint of flexibility of theshoe, to employ an insole element which has extent only in the shank andheel regions of the shoe, as illustrated in the embodiment of myinvention shown in Figs. 15-17. .In Fig. 15 the upper I0, sock-lining I2and platform cover strip I8 are. stitched as at I6 to each other thesame as described in connection with Fig. 1. However, in the presentmodification there is no need for the marginal excess of sock-liningaroundthe forepart but only at the shank and heel regions. After theupper, sock-lining and cover strip are pre-stitched while free of alast, the last is slipped into'the upperas previously described, andthe'insole element is then laid in place as before except that theinsole element 26 in the present case extends only in the shank and heelregions. The marginal excess of socklining is turned over' the edges ofthe insole element 26"at the shank and heel regions precisely as. in thefirst described form, and the subsequent steps to completion of the shoeare the same'as in the first'described form. However,

sincerthere is no extent of the insole element 28" into the forepart ofthe shoe in this'present modification, I prefer to make the platformelement of a material capable of preserving the desired generally fiatshape at the base of the forepart of the shoe. The platform, forexample, may be of leather or imitation leather, or paper board which,in conjunction with the outsole, can effectively maintain the desiredshape of the shoe.

I claim as my invention:

1. The method of making an article of footwear comprising providing anover-size full length sock-lining and stitching it to an upper aroundonly the foreparts thereof while the upper is free of a last and leavingthe shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining free of eachother, slipping a last into the upper between the upper and sock-lining,laying an insole element on the exposed face of the sock-lining andturning the marginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining overupon the exposed surface of the insole element and securing them in saidturned over relation, and then lasting the rear portions of the upperover upon the insole element and securing them in said lasted overrelation to provide an intermediate footwear structure, followed byapplying and securing outsole and heel elements to the describedintermediate footwear structure.

2. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the stepsof stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to an upper around onlythe foreparts thereof while the upper is free of a last, the shank andheel regions of the upper and sock-lining being left free of each otherso that a last can he slipped between them into the pre-stitchedforepart, inserting a last between the free rear portions of upper andsock-lining into the pre-stitched forepart, placing an insole element onthe exposed outer face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portionsof the over-size sock-lining projecting beyond the edges of the insoleelement, turning said projecting marginal excess portions of thesock-lining over the edges of the insole element and securing them tothe exposed face of the insole element, and then lasting the rearportions of the upper and securing them to the exposed face of theinsole element, followed by completion of the article by applying andsecuring thereto outsole and heel elements.

3. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the stepsof stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to the upper onlyaround the foreparts thereof so that the shank and heel regions of theupper and sock-lining are free of each other, and then slipping a lastinto the upper, after which an insole element is arranged on the exposedouter face of the socklining, and marginal excess portions of theoversize sock-lining, projecting beyond the edges of the insole element,are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured to theexposed face thereof, followed by lasting the rear portions of the upperand securing lasted over portions thereof to the exposed face of theinsole element, and finally applying and securing in place the desiredoutsole and heel elements.

a. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the stepsof stitching a full length over-size sock-lining to a last-free upperaround only the foreparts thereof so that the shank and heel regions ofthe upper and socklining are free of each other, inserting a lastbetween the free rear portions of the upper and sock-lining and into thepre-stitched forepart of the article, placing a full length insoleelement on the exposed outer face of the sock-lining so that marginalexcess portions of the over-size sock lining project beyond the edges ofthe insole all around the insole, turning said marginal excess portionsof sock-lining over the edges of the insole element and securing saidportions to the outer face of the insole element all around the marginof the latter, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securinglasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element,providing a platform and heel unit and securing it on the outer face ofthe insole element, followed by applying and securing an outsole to saidplatform and heel unit.

5. The method of making an article of footgions of the upper andsock-lining are free of each other, inserting a last between the freerear portions of the upper and'sock-lining and into the pre-stitchedforepart of the article, placing a full length insole element on theouter face of the sock-lining with marginal excess portions of theover-size sock lining projecting beyond the edges of the insole elementall around the latter, turning said marginal excess portions of thesocklining over the edges of the insole element and securing them to theouter face of the insole element, lasting the rear portions of the upperand securing lasted overportions thereof to the outer face of the insoleelement, providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing iton the outer face of the insole element, turning said platform coverstrip over the edges of the platform at its forepart region and securingsaid turned over cover strip to the outer face of the platform, followedby applying and securing an outsole to said platform and heel unit.

6. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises the stepsof stitching a platform cover strip and a full length over-sizesock-lining to a last-free upper around only the forepart of the upperso that shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free ofeach other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upperand sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article,placing an insole element on the outer face of the sock-lining withmarginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining projecting beyondthe edges of the insole element, turning said marginal excess portionsof the sock-lining over the edges of, the insole element and securingthem to the outer face of the insole element, lasting the rear portionsof the upper and securing lasted over portions thereof to the outer faceof the insole element, providing a platform and heel unit and placingand securing it on the outer side of the insole element, turning saidplatform cover strip over the edges of the platform at its forepartregion and securing said turned over cover strip to the outer face ofthe platform, followed by applying and securing an outsole to saidplatform and heel unit.

"1. The method of making an article of footwear which comprises thesteps of stitching a platform cover strip and a full length over-sizesock-lining to a last-free upper around only the forepart of the upperso that shank and heel regions of the upper and sock-lining are free ofeach other, inserting a last between the free rear portions of the upperand sock-lining and into the pre-stitched forepart of the article,providing a half insole element and placing it on the outer side of thesock-lining so that it has extent only at the shank and heel regions ofthe article and so that marginal excess portions of the sock-liningproject beyond the edges of the insole element at the shank and heelregions, turning said marginal excess portions of the socklining overthe edges of the insole element and securing them to the outer faceoftheinsole element, lasting the rear portions of the upper and securinglasted over portions thereof to the outer face of the insole element,providing a platform and heel unit and placing and securing it on theouter side of the insole element at the shank and heel regions and onthe outer side of the sock-lining at the forepart region, turning saidplatform cover strip over the edges of the platform at the forepartregion and securing said turned over cover strip to the outer face ofthe platform, followed by applying and. securing an outsole to saidplatform and heel unit.

8. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length sock-liningover-size at least at its shank and heel regions and stitched to theupper around only the forepart of the article, an insole element on theouter side of the sock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excessportions of the over-size sock-lining which excess portions are turnedover the edges of the insole element and secured to the outer face ofthe insole element, said upper beinglasted only at regions from theshank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper being secured tothe outer face of said insole element, a platform and heel unit securedbelow the upper including securement thereof to the lasted over portionsof the upper and to the outer face of the insole element at the shankand heel regions, and an outsole secured to said platform and heel unit.

9. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full length over-sizesock-lining stitched to the upper around only the forepart of thearticle, a full length insole element on the outer side of thesock-lining having its edges bound by marginal excess portions of theover-size sock-lining which excess portions are turned over the edges ofthe insole element and secured to the outer face of the insole elementall around the margin thereof, said upper being lasted only at regionsfrom the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upper beingsecured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform and heelunit secured below the insole element, a platform cover strip stitchedto the upper at its forepart and turned over the edges of the forepartof the platform and secured to the outer face thereof, and an outsolesecured to the bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.

10. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full lengthsock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions andstitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, a halfinsole element on the outer side of the sock-lining and having extentonly in the shank and heel regions of the article and having its edgesbound by marginal excess portions of said over-size sock-lining whichexcess portions are turned over the edges of the insole element andsecured to the outer face thereof, said upper being'lasted only atregions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upperbeing secured to the outer face of the insole element, a platform andheel unit secured to the lasted over portions of the upper and to theouter face of the insole ele-' ment at the shank and heel regions andsecured to the outer face of the sock-lining at the forepart region, aplatform cover strip stitched to the forepart of the upper and turnedover the edges-of the forepart of the platform and secured to the outerface of the platform, and an outsole secured to the bottom surfaces ofsaid platform and heel unit.

11. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full lengthsock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions andstitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insoleelement on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound bymarginal excess portions of- -over-size sock-lining which excessportions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured tothe outer face of the insole element, said upper'being lasted only atregions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upperbeing secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform andheel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platformelement and a plurality of heel lift elements disposed on opposite sidesof the platform at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured tothe bottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.

12. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full lengthsock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions andstitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insoleelement on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound bymarginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excessportions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured tothe outer face of the insole element, said upper being lasted only atregions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upperbeing secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform andheel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platformelement and a plurality of heel lift elements of which at least one ofthe lift elements has generally wedge shape and is disposed above theplatform at the shank and heel regions, and an outsole secured to thebottom surfaces of said platform and heel unit.

13. An article of footwear comprising an upper, a full lengthsock-lining over-size at least at its shank and heel regions andstitched to the upper around only the forepart of the article, an insoleelement on the outer side of the sock-lining having its edges bound bymarginal excess portions of the over-size sock-lining which excessportions are turned over the edges of the insole element and secured tothe outer face of the insole element, said upper being lasted only atregions from the shank rearward, and lasted over portions of the upperbeing secured to the outer face of said insole element, a platform andheel unit secured below the upper comprising a full length platformelement and a plurality of heel lift elements of which at least one ofthe lift elements is of resiliently compressible material and ofgenerally wedge shape and is disposed above said platform element at theshank and heel regions, a platform cover strip stitched to the upperaround its forepart and turned over the edges of the forepart of theplatform and secured to the outer face of the platform, and an outsolesecured to the bottom surfaces of the said platform and heel unit.

ROY MALING.

